Lumpia. Semarang ‘s signature dish, has become very famous
over the years. So famous, in fact. That a parody music group, Project Pop,
used it in a song title : Lumpia vs Bakpia. Its’s like rollade, with bamboo
sprouts, eggs, and chicken or shrimp.
The flavor of Lumpia is a blend between Chinese and
Indonesian. Yes, lumpia was first introduced by a Chinese man who married an
Indonesian woman. The word “lumpia” originated in China, referring to a Hokkien
word “lun-pia” which is another name for popiah (a lumpia-like dish, but
larger). The recipes for fried lumpia and wet lumpia were brought by a Chinese
immigrant to Southeast Asia and it became famous as it reached Indonesia and
the Philippines.
In Indonesia, lumpia became a trademark for Semarang. History
shows that this Semarang lumpia was created and pioneered by Chinese Javanese
couple about a century ago. Before they were married. They had both been
selling lumpia from their respective regions. A young Chinese man named Choa
Taiyu from Fuking served Hokkien lumpias, while Mbok Warsih, a native
Indonesian, offered a Semarang-style concoction. This Hokkien and Semarang
blend has now become the pride the Semarang people and ahas been passed down
through four generations.
In Semarang nowadays, lumpia comes in five different flavor,
or “genres”. The first comes from Gang Lombok (Siems Swie Kiem), the second
from Pemuda Street (the deceased Siem Swie Hie), and the third from Mataram
Street (the deceased Siem Hwa Nio). These three “genres” came from one family
of Siem Gwan sing-Tjoa Po Nio, the son in law and only daughter of the
inventory of Semarang Lumpia. Tjoa Thay Yoe Wasih. The fourth “genre” came from
a few former employees of Pemuda Street. The fifth “genre” came simply from
people with a culinary hobbies that crafted new lumpia recipes by combining and
expanding on pre-existing ones.
If you’re in the area, try the Gang Lombok Lumpia. Located
at Gang Lombok Street, Semarang, Phone 024-3555722.
please check this awesome video from project pop. Lumpia vs Bakpia :)
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